LED Face Mask Review

Is the LED Face Mask worth the hype? Yes. 100% Yes!

I was first exposed to the idea of the LED Face Mask thanks to the 2020 K-Drama “The King: Eternal Monarch” on Netflix. Lee Min Ho and Jung Eun Chae’s characters both used the Cellreturn LED Mask several times on the show. Considering Korea is one of the leading nations when it comes to skin care and beauty, I was intrigued.

Then, in 2021, I started getting monthly facials at Dermaspace in downtown Seattle. My aesthetician recommended I try LED light therapy for an additional $30. At first I declined. I wanted to see how my skin progressed with the facials alone. My skin was looking better. I agreed to try the LED therapy on my third facial. I went home with the best glowing and even-toned skin I’ve had in a year! Even my family commented on how good my skin looked. The proof was in the pudding; I was convinced LED light therapy was necessary for my skin.

If you want to nerd out and you’re curious about the history, science, and evidence behind low level light therapy, that will be included below!

Effective Wavelengths

Research indicates the most effective wavelengths are:

1) Near-Infrared (NIR) Light at 830 nm

Powerful rejuvenating wavelength that can penetrate up to 12mm into your skin.

Helps stimulate collagen and elastin production

2) Red Light 630-660 nm (optimal 633 nm)

Reduces inflammation and redness

Aids NIR light and affects other layers of the skin. Works great in conjunction with NIR.

Professional treatments use both NIR and red light therapy.

NIR and Red Light LED Therapy Effects

• Reduce inflammation, which can help inflammatory skin conditions like acne, rosacea, eczema, and psoriasis

• Improve wound healing, i.e. lessen the appearance of scars, sun-damaged skin, stretch marks

• Improve skin texture so that skin is more smooth

• Reduce wrinkles and fine lines

My LED Face Mask

I decided to invest in the Eco Face LED Face Photon Mask. It’s a LED mask used in a Korean skin care clinic on their clients. Renee from Gothamista on YouTube recommended this mask. It offers NIR and Red Light with precise wavelengths at 830 and 630 nm, which means their bulbs are sharp and have good quality. If your LED face mask states it offers a range of wavelength as opposed to a specific wavelength, then it means the bulb quality is not as clear and may not be as effective.

The manual says it’s safe to use the mask everyday. When I was prepping my skin for the wedding, I used my LED face mask almost every day for 3 months. Currently, I use it 3-5x/week for 20 min. Haha, my hubby nicknamed me Iron Woman for when I use it. I love using it before bed, putting on the Calm app, and falling asleep. The face mask always helps improve my skin tone, reduce redness, and decrease inflammation (i.e. minimize or stop acne breakouts).

Face Mask Caution Notes

Please be careful if you have skin conditions or taking medications that would make your skin sensitive to light. Please consult your doctor or dermatologist if you have sensitive skin but would like to try LED light therapy. I’d also advise against using any harsh skin products before LED light therapy - so avoid acidic toners or serums, retinols, and acne medication creams.

Other Colored LED Lights

There is some research on how blue light therapy is beneficial. You may even hear how blue light therapy is great for treating acne. However, a systematic review illuminated the significant benefits are not clear and that there could be possible harm to your skin. There’s a possibility it could trigger hyperpigmentation and could damage your eyes. So to be on the safe side, I don’t recommend using blue LED light therapy until more research is done.

There are some LED masks that want to offer you the rainbow. Honestly, there’s not enough research supporting the benefits of those other colors, so I wouldn’t stray too far from red.

The History

In 1993, NASA tested blue and red LED light therapy in plant growth experiments in outer space. They discovered the plants responded well to the red LED wavelengths. A happy side effect was the scientists noticed their skin lesions also healed faster while tending to the plants under the red LED light. This sparked NASA to study the medical benefits of LED light.

NASA’s research conveyed high-intensity red and near-infrared LEDs significantly sped up would healing in oxygen-deprived wounds in rats and promoted the growth of skin, bone, and muscle cell cultures from mice and rats. Research also indicated NIR laser light, in particular, promoted the production of growth-factor proteins, collagen, and blood vessels, which in turn aided wound healing. (Nasa Research)

The Science

How does infrared and near infrared light therapy work?

The mitochondria in cells produce adenosine triphosphate (ATP) from pyruvate and oxygen. When cells have an inadequate blood supply, they make mitochondrial nitric acid (MtNo); MtNo binds to cytochrome C oxidase, which displaces oxygen. Infrared and near infrared light therapy can be absorbed by cytochrome C oxidase. In effect, nitric oxide is released, ATP increases, and oxidative stress is reduced. (Cotler)

Red and NIR light also affects the body’s chemicals and ion channels. The photons cause an increase of highly reactive chemicals formed from oxygen, which affects cells redox potential, or their ability to gain or lose an election. In addition, it allows Ca2+ to enter the cell. This triggers activation of transcription factors associated with protein synthesis, extracellular matrix deposition, cell migration, proliferation, anti-inflammatory, cell survival and inhibition of apoptosis. (Yadav and Gupta)

The wavelengths that are supported by scientific research are 628, 630, 635, 640, 650, 660, and 670 nm (red light) and 810, 830, and 850 nm (near-infrared).

There are quite a few articles that convey how red light therapy is beneficial. I would love for a systematic review.

Study Summaries

Human and Human Fibroblast Studies

1. Human dermal fibroblasts were exposed daily to red (640 nm), infrared (830 nm), or a combination of the two. Fibroblasts had significantly increased hyaluronic acid synthase and elastin gene expression. The fibroblasts also had increased hyaluronic acid, collagen protein and elastin protein. (Kim et al., 2019)

2. Human dermal fibroblasts were irradiated daily to red (640 nm) and NIR (830 nm) LED lights. The results showed a significant increase in the following: 1) LOXL1, ELN, COL1A1, and COL3A1 gene expression, 2) procollagen type I and elastin protein synthesis, 3) type III collagen, elastic fibre formation, and crosslinks gene expression, and 4) ATP production. (Li et al., 2021)

3. Red light irradiation at 628 nm was shown to affect gene expression of 111 genes in fibroblast HS27 cells. The genes were grouped into 10 categories: proliferation, antioxidant, metabolism, ion channel and membrane potential, cytoskeleton and extracellular matrix proteins, DNA synthesis and repair, transcription factors, and immune/inflammation and cytokines. Red light irradiation upregulated cell growth and repair genes and downregulated cell apoptosis genes. (Zhang et al. 2003)

4. A significant amount of patients in burn centers are diabetic burn patients. If they have grade 3 burn ulcers, then the standard treatment is split-thickness skin grafting (STSG), but the rate of failure and amputation is high. This study looked at 13 diabetic type 2 patients with grade 3 burn ulcers who were candidates for amputation. The study used 650 nm red light for the bed of the ulcer and a combination of 660 nm red light and 810 nm NIR light for the margins along the intravenous laster therapy before and after STSG. The results showed complete healing in all patients. (Dahmardehei et al., 2016)

5. Study investigated the use of lasers to reduce scar appearance post surgery. They used high dose (n=22) or low dose (n=8) treatments with an 810 nm diode laser system. The high dose group showed a better improvement rate than the control group (72.73% V. 59.10%) and decreased scar height of 38.1% at the 12-month analysis. Three of the high dose group patients experienced superficial burns, which resolved in 5-7 days. The low dosage group showed no significant difference from treated segment versus the control segment. (Capon et al., 2010)

6. Light therapy was clinically tested to see if it could treat oral mucositis in cancer patients undergoing bone marrow or stem cell transplant. Oral mucositis is a common and painful side effect of chemotherapy and radiation. The double blind placebo-controlled clinical trial was conducted over 2 years and used high emissivity aluminiferous luminescent substrate (HEALS) technology in the WARP 75 light delivery system. There were a total of 80 cancer patients (20 patients from Children’s Hospital of Wisconsin and 60 patients from University of Alabama at Birmingham Hospital and Children’s Hospital of Alabama). The test group received light therapy from the nurse holding the WARP 75 device closely to the patients’ cheeks and neck area for 88 seconds and 14 consecutive days. Results indicate there is a 96% chance patients pain improved due to the light therapy. Since oral pain reduced, the perceived benefits of that are less use of narcotics and better nutrition and morale. (Nasa Light)

Mice and Rat Studies

1. 30 rats were separated into 3 groups: 1) control, 2) red LED treated group (630 nm), and 3) NIR LED treated group (850 nm). The skin grafts were exposed to LED light for 10 days. Results indicate the group that received red LED light significantly improved the skin graft and elevated transforming growth factor beta protein expression and collagen fiber density. (Martignago et al., 2020)

2. 30 mice were divided into 5 groups. There was one control group and four experimental groups: 1) 635 nm, 2) 730 nm, 3), 810 nm, and 4) 980 nm light irradiated. The experimental groups received light irradiation for seven consecutive days on the dermal abrasion. The experimental group treated with 810 nm had a significant reduction in the wound area compared to the control group. The group irradiated with 635 nm was partially effective. The experimental groups treated with 730 and 980 nm were ineffective. (Gupta et al., 2014)

3. 48 rats were divided into three groups: 1) control, 2) 830 nm 1.3 J cm(-2), and 3) 830 nm 3 J cm(-2) NIR treated groups. The NIR treated groups were irradiated immediately post-wounding. The wound was assessed 3, 7, and 14 days after the wound was inflicted. The experimental groups showed accelerated wound healing compared to the control group. (Rezende et al., 2007)

4. Low-level red laser light (660 nm) was studied to treat second-degree burns in rats. The subjects were divided into three groups: 1) control (n=12), 2) early laser group irradiated from day 1 through 5 (n=12), and 3) late laster group irradiated from day 4 through 8 (n=14). Both groups exhibited increased macrophage and myofibroblasts 10 days after the burn and type III collagen expression and TGF-β 21 days post burn. The late laser group showed faster wound contraction and reepithelialization and increased granulation tissue. The results indicate that red laser light can improve tissue repair in second-degree burns, but is more influential in the proliferative phase of healing. (Trajano et al., 2015) 

5. 48 rats either received standard diet or hyperlipidic diet for 20 weeks. Both groups were inflicted wounds. Irradiation was conducted after surgery and every 48 hours for 7 or 14 days at 660 nm. The rats with the hyperlipidic diet had greater inflammation and prolonged hyperemia. At day 7, the inflammation was reduced in both groups compared to the control group. There was increased fibroblast proliferation and collagen deposition, especially in the hyperlipidic group. (Silva et al., 2016)

6. Study used 670 nm red light and 830 nm NIR light on second-degree burns on rats. The groups treated with 670 nm red light and 830 nm red NIR light had reduced granulocytes and increased newly formed blood vessels. The 670 nm red light group had a more significant amount of fibroblasts. Overall, both phototherapy treated groups had improved healing compared to the control group.  (Chiarotto et al., 2014)

7. Study researched low-level laser therapy light (LLLT) on third-degree burns in rats. There were two third-degree burns inflicted on the rats, proximal and distal. The proximal burns were used as the control burn. The distal burns were treated with either LLLT or 0.2% nitrofurazone. The LLLT groups showed significantly lower amounts of bacteria (i.e. staphylococcus epidermis, lactobacillus, and diphtheria) and accelerated wound closure. (Ezzati et al., 2009)

8. Study assessed photo-biomodulatory effect of 632.8 nm red light and 785 and 830 NIR light on burn injuries in mice. The experimental groups were irradiated once assessed morphometrically and histologically. Histological assessment of the 830 NIR light treated group showed advanced wound repair with increased fibroblasts, collagen, and neovascularization in comparison to the other experimental and control groups. The healing progression of the single instance of 830 NIR light irradiation is similar to that of a 5% povidone iodine treatment applied daily. (Rathnakar et al., 2016)

9. Study looked at effect of 635 nm diode laser irradiations at different densities on cutaneous skin wounds in rats. Tissue samples show both energy densities had advanced wound healing in comparison to the control. The lower energy density group exhibited greater healing in the beginning. By the 7th day of healing, the higher density group had significantly smaller wounds compared to the control. (Solmaz et al., 2016) 

Systematic Review and General Study

1. Systematic review of 14 randomized controlled trials (698 participants) accessed the effects of blue light versus nonlight interventions in treating acne vulgaris. The conclusion was the results of the trials showed a high risk of bias. Additionally, the mean difference of the mean number for the noninflammatory lesions between the control and test groups had a nonsignificant value. Their conclusion is that they cannot determine the effectiveness of blue light for acne. (Scott et al, 2019)

2. Nitric Oxide (NO) is a free radial that can operate as an antioxidant or an oxidant. The body has a pool of compounds that easily convert to NO. Studies have shown that UVA/blue light is capable of releasing cutaneous stores of NO deviates to the bloodstream. Red light and NIR light are also capable of releasing NO locally and systemically. However, UVA exposure can lead to photoaging, melanoma, and non-melanoma skin cancers and may trigger hyperpigmentation. Although short-term UVA-induced NO release have shown beneficial effects to reduce oxidative stress, it may be safer to use non-ionizing wavelengths in the red and NIR spectrum to avoid any potential side effects. (Barolet et al., 2021). 

3. Study looked at skin temperature of 42 people, men and women, with different skin pigmentations undergoing phototherapy. They were irradiated at 905 nm, 875 nm, and 640 nm light. Their skin was assessed the last 5 seconds of each irradiation dose and for 1 minute after irradiation. Results showed there were no significant skin temperature increases in the different skin color groups and, therefore, can be used safely all skin type pigmentations. (Grandinetti et al., 2015)

Sources

Barolet, A.C., Litvinov, I.V., Barolet, D. (2021) Light-induced nitric oxide release in the skin beyond UVA and blue light: red & near-infrared wavelengths. Nitric Oxide, 117(1), 16-25. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.niox.2021.09.003

Capon, A., Larmarcovai, G., Gonnelli, D., Degardin, N., Magalon, G., Mordon, S. (2010). Scar prevention causing laser-assisted skin healing (LASH) in plastic surgery. Aesthetic Plastic Surgery, 34(4), 438-46. https://doi.org/10.1007/s00266-009-9469-y

Chiarotto, G.B., Neves, L.M.G., Esquisatto, M.A.M., Amaral, M.E.C., Santos, G.M.T., Mendonca, F.A.S. (2014). Effects of laser irradiation (670-nm InGaP and 830-nm GaA1As) on burn of second-degree in rats. Lasers in Medical Science, 29(5), 1685-93. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10103-014-1573-9

Cotler, H.B. (2015). A NASA discovery has current applications in orthopaedics. Curr Orthop Pract, 26(1), 72-74. https://doi.org/10.1097%2FBCO.0000000000000196

Dahmardehei, M., Kazemikhoo, N., Vaghardoost, R., Mokmeli, S., Momeni, M., Nilforoushzadeh, M.A., Ansari, F., Amirkhani, A. (2016). Effects of low level laser therapy on the prognosis of split-thickness skin graft in type 3 burn of diabetic patients: a case series. Lasers in Medical Science, 31(3), 407-502. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10103-016-1896-9

Ezzati, A., Bayat, M., Taheri, S., Mohsenifar, Z. (2009). Low-level laser therapy with pulsed infrared laser accelerates third-degree burn healing process in rats. Journal of Rehabilitation Research and Development, 46(4), 543-54. https://www.rehab.research.va.gov/jour/09/46/4/ezzati.html

Grandinetti, V.D.S., Miranda, E.F.,  Johnson, D.S., Paiva, P.R.V., Tomazoni, S.S., Vanin, A.A., Albuquerque-Pontes, G.M., Frigo, L., Marcos, R.L., Carvalho, P.D.T.C., Leal-Junion, E.C.P.L. (2015) The thermal impact of phototherapy with concurrent super-pulsed lasers and red and infrared LEDs on human skin. Lasers in Medical Science, 30(5), 1575-81. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10103-015-1755-0

Gupta, A., Dai, T., Hamblin, M. (2014). Effect of red and near infrared wavelengths on low-level laser (light) therapy induced healing of partial-thickness dermal abrasion in mice. Lasers in Medical Science, 29(1). https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3766381/

Kim, B., Mukherjee, A., Seo, I., Fassih, A., Southall, M., Parsa, R. (2019). Low-level red and infrared light increases expression of collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid in skin. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 81(4), Supplement 1, AB34. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jaad.2019.10.089
*sponsored by Johnson and Johnson, Consumer Inc.

Li, W.H., Seo, I., Kim, B., Fassih, A., Southall, M., Parsa, R. (2021). Low-level red plus near infrared lights combination induces expressions of collagen and elastin in human skin in vitro. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 43(3), 311-320. https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12698

Martignago C.C.S., Tim C.R., Assis, L., Silva, V.R.D., Santos, E.C.B.D., Vieira, F.N., Parizotto, N.A., Liebano, R.E. (2020). Effects of red and near-infrared LED light therapy on full-thickness skin grafts in rats. Lasers in Medical Science, 35(1), 157-164. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10103-019-02812-6

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https://spinoff.nasa.gov/NASA-Research-Illuminates-Medical-Uses-of-Light

Nasa Light Technology Successfully Reduces Cancer Patients Painful Side Effects from Radiation and Chemotherapy. (2011, Mar. 3). Nasa. Retrieved July 12, 2022. https://www.nasa.gov/topics/nasalife/features/heals.html

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